Wednesday, January 31, 2007

france.paris.the louvre.antiquities

Generally my favorite part of any art museum is the antiquities section, if they have one. And the Louvre certainly has one -- one of the advantages of being a former colonial power. These include the gates of Dur Sharrukin w, capitol city of Sargon II w, the stela of the Law Code of Hammurabi w, artifacts of Akhenaten's w reign, and more.

I'm particularly fond of this piece. The tablet in the man's lap depicts what is certainly the floor plan of a building that he has designed -- perhaps the first likeness of an architect.


france.paris.the louvre.building

Naturally, the Louvre itself is a work of art. The building was a proper palace once, and before that a fortified castle. One thing that astonished me was the size. The building's layout includes wings surrounding courtyards that contain within themselves smaller courtyards (these invariably filled with statuary). The corridors seem to go on forever, and there are 4 levels, although with stairs going up and down all over the place, the distinctions blur, and it is easy to get lost.

The main courtyard is home to I.M Pei'sw famous glass pyramid, which is a skylight for the admittance area of the main entrance. A second glass pyramid does the same for the attached shopping mall.

Recently, much of the foundation of the original castle has been excavated, and you can walk around a section of its perimeter. These foundations were laid around 1190, with the more recent (and visible) building starting in 1535.

The Louvre, although not oriented with the axis (like the Grande Archew), is supposedly the starting point for axe historiquew, in particular, the equestrian statue of Louis the 14th. And here he is, Louisw et poupé:


Wednesday, January 17, 2007

france.paris.the louvre.classical

My "Classical" list includes Persian, Greek, Etruscan and Roman artifacts -- these are well represented at the Louvre, including column headers from the main hall of the Darius the Great w, The Winged Victory (Nike) of Samothrace w, and the Venus De Milo w.



There is also this odd little sculpture, featuring a surprise:

Many of the works were under restoration when I was there.


Sunday, January 14, 2007

france.paris.montmartre


France/Belgium 2006

This is a log of my one month trip to France (mostly) and Belgium in the summer of 2006. I arrived about a week into June and returned to the US at the end of the first week of July, spending virtually all the time in Paris, where I rented an apartment. I took four day-trips outside of Paris (Amiens, Bayeux, Caen, and Chartres), and spent the last three days of the vacation in Brussels.

I'm starting to put this together now (January, 2007), using Blogger and Picasa Web. I divided my trip photographs into a variety of albums (34 in total), and my plan is to write a short web log entry to provide an overview for each album, followed by a link to that album. As per usual with web logs, I'll try to link useful sites into the entries, and embed a few "teaser" images from that location. The most commonly referenced site will be Wikipedia w, and which I will link using a superscripted "w".

My relatives helpfully provided me with travel guides for my birthday:

Of these, Daytrips France was perhaps the most frequently referenced, in part because this was the way I did most of my travelling in France, and also because of the handy "Walking Tours" of Paris itself.

I had a major advantage in that I had a friend (Scott Hutchins) staying in Paris at the time (on a Stanford fellowship at the Cité Internationale des Arts). Scott speaks French, lived in France in the past, and had been there 5 or 6 months when I arrived, so he was able to give me a good orientation. Incidentally, I do not speak French, and essentially learned none. At the end of my stay, after greeting a shopkeeper with "Bonjour Monsieur" about 1 in 10 would bother responding in French.

I bought a Panasonic Lumix DMC-LX1 for the trip (courtesy of my parents). I've come to terms with the fact that I'm not a great photographer, and I chafe at lugging to much gear around, so I wanted a compact camera with decent picture quality and some kind of zoom. That the DMC-LX1 defaulted to taking 16:9 aspect ration photographs sealed the deal for me. It seemed like the perfect compact for taking travel-style (lots of landscapes) pictures, and I think that it was. Alas it was stolen on my last day in France, but fortunately I only had about a day and a half of footage from Brussels on it at that point (the Comic Book Museum and Mort Subite mostly). I will say that the problems with the camera related on the Digital Photography Review site are very real, and can be a pain to work around, but that didn't stop me from recently replacing the camera with the next generation model, the DMC-LX2. Of course, you can judge the pictures yourself, but generally the color issues don't appear unless you download the full size (3MB+) image.

I'll be adding to this journal over time -- my initial goal is to get all of the Montmartre albums and log entries published first, and proceed from there. Since the entries will appear in the web log in a semi-random fashion, I'll have a link to this page readily available on the right, and I will also post an entry that will serve as a hyperlink table of contents. I'll have the full tree available at first, and then continually update it with links as the entries and albums are finalized. Please -- use the comments section to point up errors in grammar, spelling, facts and particularly broken links.

I'm just getting a handle on Google's Blogger, so things will change around a lot as time goes on. One of the issues I'm currently having is that even though they claim to have an "Edit Html" mode and a WYSIWYG-style "Compose" mode, entities seem to disappear, while line breaks seem to be maintained. The latter makes it extremely hard to write useful HTML. I apologize in advance for odd spacing throughout the text.

[Update] I'm starting to get the hang of this -- I found the setting to turn off automatic line-breaks, and I'm editing the old files to restructure them now that I can use HTML tags the way I expect to.

Well! On to the Table of Contents.

france.paris.montmartre.cemetery

Montmartre w apparently once served the same purpose as Colma w -- before being absorbed into Paris' city limits it became a popular place to bury people once cemeteries had been outlawed in Paris proper. Cimetière de Montmartre w is sunken into the surrounding neighborhood (it was once a quarry), and many of the tombs are above-ground. A variety of famous people are buried there (and at least one, Émile Zola w later disinterred for the Pantheon w) -- mostly artists and entertainers of the sort Montmartre is known for.

The cemetery is a proper necropolis, laid out with named streets and alleys running between the graves. Maps dotted around the grounds help direct you to the famous dead, but most of the non-famous tombs are fun to check out.


france.paris.montmartre.about

Ultimately, Montmartre w was just a nice place to hang out on quiet days in-between serious touristing. I always felt a little bit guilty when the entirety of my day consisted of wandering down to the Sancerre for lunch and internet (also the only place I found with decent iced coffee), then dumping the laptop and returning to Rue des Abbesses to find a bar to watch the day's World Cup w matches. But in truth that had been sort of the point of the vacation.

A few of Montmartre's famous moulins remain (although non-functional), along, of course, with Baz Luhrmann-violated Moulin Rouge w. Old medieval streets (with gutters in the center) are preserved there, along with avant-garde hangouts from the turn of the century, surrealist sculptures. The original Art Nouveau w entrances to the Métrow by the architect Hector Guimard w still stand.

Here, a trifecta -- the Moulin Rouge, with it's adjacent property -- a Quick Burger w franchise (France's answer to McDonald's, both of which are wildly successful), and the cheeseball tourist train that made a regular circuit from Sacré-Coeur, past my window, and on down to Pigalle w:


france.paris.montmartre.sacré-coeur

This striking Romanesque church dominates the top of Butte Montmartrew. Built as atonement for the disasterous Franco-Prussian war, and in Paris carrying overtones of the Commune w as well, Sacré-Coeur Basilica w had been recently cleaned before my arrival, and seemed particularly bone-white. It's design gets mixed reviews (one of my guidebooks refers to it as a "monstrosity"), and while France is known for perfecting the high-gothic style, I suppose anything called "Gothic" probably wouldn't have been received favorably at that particular moment in time. Also, a sizable number of Paris' aesthetically-oriented citizens had just been put up against a wall and shot.

There are stunning views to be had from the front steps, and the designer had found a place for gargoyles, so it was okay by me. My apartment was about a block from the Basilica, winding one's way past the Irish bar on Rue du Chevalier de La Barre.


france.paris.montmartre.stairs

So, what was living in Montmartre w like? The answer is surprisingly simple. I've attempted to sum it up in a short series of photographs, although it is hard to tell the tale without temperature and humidity stamped on each image...


france.paris.montmartre.home

Since I wanted to spend most of my time in Paris, I rented an apartment instead of a hotel room. I had discovered that Craigslist not only had a page for Paris, but that most of the short term apartment listings were actually in English. I sent a short list to Scott, who helpfully checked them out and helped with identifying neighborhoods, convenience, and the like.

The Montmartre w apartment (#6 Rue Cortot) was tiny, little bigger than a very modest hotel room in fact, but suited my needs. It felt a lot like home, being up on top of a hill, and also that odd mix of tourist-land and old neighborhood. I'm not sure if the particular apartment that I stayed in was Erik Satie's w, but from what I've read it would have been comparably small -- just enough room for a piano and a cot.

The first thing I did after signing the lease was walk down the hill to the nearest hardware shop, where I bought the biggest fan I could find. It would turn out to be the smartest thing I did that month. It would take me another three weeks to figure out how to keep milk in the painfully underpowered minifridge from going off within a day.


Saturday, January 13, 2007

Table of Contents

France
Pays
Amiens
Downtown Amiens
Amiens Cathedral
Hortillonnages
Jules Verne
Bayeux
Caen
Chartres
Downtown Chartres
Stained Glass Museum
Chartres Cathedral
Belgium
Brussels
Hotel Welcome
Around Brussels
Pis
Cartoon
Cantillion Brewery

New Picasa Test

From france.paris....
So, a new post linking an image from my currently open web album in Picasa. How does it look? I'll also try to have enough text to test the wrapping capability, as well as try modifying the default html that you are given when you choose the "embed in blog" option in Picasa. Ideally I'll be able to pepper my posts with images, and thus have short narratives to help tie the albums together.

Tuesday, January 09, 2007

Picasa Integration

Wherein we try to link an image:
From france.paris....

New Project

So, I'm going to take a stab at using the Picasa/Blogger integration, once I have my photos fully uploaded. The goal will be to create a short narrative of my last vacation, with one image per Picasa album. Each image will link to the appropriate album, creating a logical path to move through the albums. Still, I probably have a hell of a lot more pictures than anyone particularly wants to wade through.